Pie, Mash and Liquor: My 1990s Childhood Food

In commemoration of Pie Day, I’d like to share with you one of my all-time favourite meals – pie and mash. Traditionally served as a staple to the working classes in the East End of London, this humble, hearty, ultimate comfort food is still served throughout the city today. Just the thought of it induces a sense of nostalgia and longing in a way that only food can. My childhood memories consist of Saturday strolls through Deptford market, soaking in the sights and sounds, weaving through the crowds to end up in either Manze’s or Goddard’s (two of London’s most popular pie and mash shops). There was and still is nothing quite like a freshly baked pie out of one of their ovens to enjoy with family. 

By the 1800s, the savoury pie had long been a traditional food, and its small hand sized form made it a transportable meal, protected from dirt by its pastry crust and filled with cheap scrap of meat and veg. Nowadays, it’s most commonly a minced-beef, cold-water-pastry, pie served with mashed potato. There are two types of pastry; the bottom or base is often suet pastry and the top can be rough puff or short. It’s common for the mash to be spread around one side of the plate and topped with a green parsley sauce – called liquor (this isn’t alcoholic, despite the name!) Served piping hot, it’s then covered in lashings of chilli vinegar, salt and white pepper to taste. For those with a big or daring appetite – a portion of jellied eels are served on the side. 

For about £3, this simple, yet delicious meal is a favourite amongst market stall traders, manual labourers and those bargain-hungry shoppers. Perfectly complemented with a cup of Rosey Lee (tea) or a can of South London’s finest R Whites Lemonade, a serving of pie and mash definitely warms the cockles!

So, next time you’re in London – some of the best spots for this delicacy are: Arment’s, Cooke’s, or Manze’s – where you can sample a slice of this traditional London fare. 

Have a great 𝝅 day!